Apr 13, 2022
In General Discussions
I am a route developer and maintainer in NorCal and I think Castle Rock (the east shore Tahoe one) is a unique crag that may be one of the best beginner/new leader crags in the Western US. As such I think it is of significant value to the climbing community and I have seen a lot of comments on MP as well as bad bolt reports at BadBolts.com at this crag. It seems that y'all have even issued a statement regarding the poor quality of anchors there, but this was over a year ago and I haven't seen any reports of hardware being changed out there. I have done a little bit of route development and have almost as many days doing route maintenance and have been fortunate enough to be helped by and also help out some well known route developers. I am familiar with bolt pulling and installation of wedges, 5 piece sleeve bolts, and glue ins. Especially with this being a crag a couple hours from me in an area I don't climb in much I wanted to check in with the Tahoe community and see if anyone could put me in touch with FAs or give any advice. I'll go spend a day out there climbing to take inventory of what needs done, but I am hoping to be able to pull as many bolts as possible and reuse the holes. If the bolt holes are 3/8s I can drill out to 1/2" and either use sleeve bolts or glue ins. If they're 1/2" I will probably have to use glue ins. Does the TCC have any preference for type of hardware installed? Also, I'd like to upgrade the cold shuts to either captive carabiners or mussy hooks. Does the TCC have a preference for type of anchors? I would have to do this slowly as I can't afford to upgrade them all at once. If the TCC is willing to donate any hardware this process could be expedited, but I have no expectations of that. If there is anyone that is part of the route maintenance team that wants to help out it would be cool to get this job done through the TCC in a more official capacity, but if it works out better for me to do it on my own then that is fine, too. I'm hoping we can get this crag renovated to the point that it becomes the best new leader destination in Tahoe and it can be recommended without hesitation. Any input/info/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.